---
title: "Centella Asiatica (Cica) in Skincare: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, and the Wound-Healing Evidence"
description: "Centella asiatica — 'cica' in modern skincare — has documented wound-healing, anti-inflammatory, and collagen-stimulating effects via four key triterpenes. The science."
url: https://whollykaw.com/learn/centella-asiatica-in-skincare
published: 2026-05-25
updated: 2026-05-25
keywords: ["centella asiatica skincare", "cica cream", "madecassoside", "asiaticoside", "tiger grass", "gotu kola skin", "centella scar", "TECA TECA cream"]
site: WhollyKaw
---

# Centella asiatica in skincare

*Centella asiatica — 'cica' in modern skincare — has documented wound-healing, anti-inflammatory, and collagen-stimulating effects via four key triterpenes. The science.*

**Centella asiatica** — known as "cica" in K-beauty branding, "gotu kola" in Ayurvedic medicine, and "tiger grass" in older Western herbalism — is one of the most-evidence-backed botanicals in modern dermatology. Used for over 3,000 years in Ayurvedic and Traditional Chinese Medicine for wound healing, anti-inflammatory effects, and skin disorders, modern research has validated the mechanisms behind these traditional uses.

Four specific triterpene compounds in centella — asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid (together known as "TECA," titrated extract of Centella asiatica) — produce the documented effects: accelerated wound healing, collagen stimulation, reduced inflammation, and antioxidant defense. WhollyKaw's Eye Centella Cream is built around centella for these specific properties in the delicate eye area.

## What centella asiatica is

Centella asiatica (also Hydrocotyle asiatica) is a small herbaceous plant native to wetlands across Asia. The whole plant — leaves, stems, roots — contains the bioactive compounds, but the aerial parts (leaves and stems) provide the highest concentrations. Used fresh, dried, or extracted into standardized concentrations for medicinal and cosmetic use.

The plant grows in tropical and subtropical regions of India, Sri Lanka, Madagascar, Southern China, Indonesia, and Australia. Wild and cultivated sources both exist; cosmetic-grade extracts are typically from cultivated plantations in Madagascar (the original European source) and India.

### Forms used in skincare

- **Centella asiatica extract** — whole-plant aqueous/ethanolic extract; broad-spectrum bioactive content.
- **Madecassoside (isolated)** — purified single triterpene; most-studied for collagen stimulation.
- **Asiaticoside (isolated)** — purified single triterpene; primary wound-healing active.
- **TECA (titrated extract)** — standardized 40% asiaticoside + 60% mixture of asiatic + madecassic acids. The pharmaceutical-grade form used in many clinical studies.
- **Hydrolyzed centella extract** — broken-down peptide-like fragments for better penetration in modern serums.

## How centella works on skin

### 1. Collagen synthesis stimulation (madecassoside)

Madecassoside upregulates collagen Type I synthesis in fibroblasts via TGF-β signaling. This is the mechanism behind centella's anti-aging and scar-reduction effects. Clinical studies show measurable increases in skin collagen content after 8-12 weeks of consistent topical use.

### 2. Wound healing acceleration (asiaticoside)

Asiaticoside accelerates fibroblast migration to wound sites and supports granulation tissue formation. Used in pharmaceutical wound-healing products and traditional medicine for cuts, burns, scars, and post-surgical healing. The mechanism is mechanism-distinct from antimicrobial wound care — centella works on the regeneration side, not the infection-prevention side.

### 3. Anti-inflammatory cytokine modulation

All four TECA compounds (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid) inhibit pro-inflammatory cytokine release. Reduces redness, reactivity, and post-injury inflammation. Particularly well-documented for atopic dermatitis (eczema) and post-procedure recovery.

### 4. Antioxidant defense

Centella contains polyphenolic flavonoids (in addition to the triterpenes) that provide antioxidant activity. Neutralizes UV-generated free radicals; reduces secondary photoaging damage. Lower antioxidant load than dedicated antioxidant ingredients like vitamin C, but contributes to overall skin protection.

### 5. Barrier function support

Recent research shows centella extracts strengthen the skin barrier by supporting ceramide synthesis and reducing transepidermal water loss. This explains the documented benefit in atopic dermatitis — both inflammation reduction AND barrier restoration combine to improve eczema-prone skin.

## The evidence — published research

Standardized Centella asiatica extract (ECa 233) mitigates chlorhexidine-induced cytotoxicity and promotes oral wound repair via immunomodulation and angiogenesis.Rotpenpian N, Puengsurin D, Arayapisit T, et al. · Arch Oral Biol · 2026 · PMID: 41950551OBJECTIVE: Although 0.12% Chlorhexidine (CHX) is the gold standard oral antiseptic, its significant cytotoxicity often delays tissue repair. This study investigated the potential of ECa 233, a standardized Centella asiatica extract, to mitigate CHX-induced damage and promote oral wound regeneration. DESIGNS: Antimicrobial efficacy was assessed via minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) against key oral pathogens. Human Gingival Fibroblasts (HGFs) were treated with CHX and ECa 233 to evaluate…Effects of Centella asiatica extract on burn wound healing in streptozotocin-induced diabetic rats: a pathological and molecular evaluation.Dağar O, Ortatatlı M · J Mol Histol · 2026 · PMID: 41934524This study investigated the pathological and molecular effects of Centella asiatica extract-based cream and ointment formulations on burn wound healing in streptozotocin-induced diabetic rats. A total of 92 female Wistar albino rats were assigned to six groups: control (C), burn (B), diabetes (D), diabetes + burn (DB), diabetes + burn + cream (DBC), and diabetes + burn + ointment (DBP). Each group was further subdivided into 7-day (First subgroups) and 14-day (Second subgroups) treatment…Natural Extracts in Skin Repair and Wound Healing: Phytochemical Mechanisms and Dermopharmaceutical Perspectives.Tertipi N, Grech V, Sfyri E, et al. · Molecules · 2026 · PMID: 41900066BACKGROUND: Skin repair and skin wound healing are tightly regulated biological processes that require coordinated control of inflammation, redox homeostasis, angiogenesis, and tissue remodelling. In this context, natural extracts are increasingly recognized as sources of chemically diverse phytochemicals capable of modulating defined molecular signalling pathways that govern cutaneous repair. METHODS: This review provides a mechanism-informed synthesis of current evidence by examining…Asiatic Acid Ameliorates Indomethacin-Induced Gastric Ulcers in Rats Through Enhancement of TGF-β1.Alamoudi A, Negm A, Alturkistani H, et al. · J Biochem Mol Toxicol · 2026 · PMID: 41873212Use of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs may be associated with peptic ulcers. Asiatic acid, the active ingredient of Centella asiatica, is well-known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing effects. Therefore, the aim of the study was to investigate the potential gastroprotective effects of asiatic acid dissolved in orange oil against indomethacin-induced peptic ulcer in rats. Rats were assigned to six groups as follows: Group 1: orally received the vehicle of asiatic…Transfersomal delivery of Centella asiatica promotes efficient excision wound healing in rats.Lapmanee S, Bunwatcharaphansakun P, Phongsupa W, et al. · Drug Deliv · 2025 · PMID: 41025315This study presents the development and evaluation of Centella Asiatica (CA)-loaded transfersomes (CANP) as a novel nanocarrier for transdermal delivery. CANP were prepared using an oil-in-water emulsion method, producing nanoparticles with a size of 135.22 ± 4.80 nm, a polydispersity index of 0.22 ± 0.01, and a zeta potential of -26.13 ± 0.58 mV. Stability tests confirmed consistent physicochemical properties under various storage conditions, with encapsulation efficiencies above 68% for…Enhanced Skin-Protective Effects of a Novel Centella asiatica Variety (BT-Care) Cultivated for 75 Days via Modulation of Antioxidant Defense, Collagen Synthesis, and Skin Barrier Function.Ko K, Cheon G, Ha Y, et al. · J Microbiol Biotechnol · 2025 · PMID: 40659547Centella asiatica L. Urban (CA) is traditionally used in skin wound healing, and stable cultivation-related studies are currently being conducted to meet the growing demand in the food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical industries. This study aimed to analyze the growth rate and target bioactive compound levels of a novel variety, giant CA (BT-care), according to cultivation period, and to compare the effects of extracts harvested at specific cultivation periods on skin health in human…

## The active compounds

| Compound | Primary role | Strength of evidence |
|---|---|---|
| Asiaticoside | Wound healing; fibroblast migration | Strong (decades of clinical use) |
| Madecassoside | Collagen Type I synthesis stimulation | Strong (modern dermatology research) |
| Asiatic acid | Anti-inflammatory; collagen support | Moderate (clinical and cell-level studies) |
| Madecassic acid | Anti-inflammatory; minor wound healing | Moderate |
| TECA (titrated extract) | Standardized 40% asiaticoside + 60% acids mix | Strong — pharmaceutical-grade clinical evidence |

## What centella actually does (and doesn't)

### What it does

- Accelerates wound healing through fibroblast migration and granulation tissue support.
- Stimulates collagen Type I synthesis via TGF-β signaling (madecassoside primary).
- Reduces inflammation via cytokine modulation — particularly effective for atopic dermatitis.
- Supports barrier function and reduces transepidermal water loss.
- Reduces scar appearance over months of consistent use.
- Well-tolerated by virtually all skin types including very sensitive.
- Pairs well with ectoin, hyaluronic acid, and squalane in sensitive-skin formulations.

### What it doesn't do

- **Doesn't produce dramatic results in days.** Effects compound over weeks to months. Scar reduction in particular requires 3-6 months of consistent application.
- **Doesn't replace dedicated antiseptic for open wounds.** Centella supports healing but doesn't kill pathogens. For deep cuts or infected wounds, see a doctor.
- **Doesn't treat established melasma or pigmentation alone.** Tyrosinase-inhibiting actives (vitamin C, niacinamide, hydroquinone) are more direct for pigmentation.
- **Doesn't replace retinoids for collagen stimulation.** Retinoids work via different receptors with stronger effect; centella is a gentler alternative.
- **Whole-extract isn't always equivalent to isolated TECA.** Pharmaceutical-grade TECA (40/60 standardized) produces stronger effects than crude whole-plant extract at equivalent concentrations.

## Safety considerations

- **Generally very safe.** Long history of traditional medicinal use (3,000+ years in Ayurveda); modern cosmetic use with minimal documented allergic reactions.
- **Pregnancy and breastfeeding:** topical centella at cosmetic concentrations has no documented pregnancy concerns. Oral centella supplements may have hormonal effects and should be discussed with a healthcare provider during pregnancy.
- **Sensitive skin:** centella is specifically suited to sensitive and compromised skin — one of the safer botanical actives.
- **Drug interactions:** rare; topical use carries no documented drug interaction concerns.

## WhollyKaw products with centella asiatica

- **[Eye Centella Cream](https://whollykaw.com/learn/eye-centella-cream)** — centella asiatica + ectoin + acmella + sodium hyaluronate + squalane. Built for the eye area's delicate skin needs.

Related: [Dragon's Blood](https://whollykaw.com/learn/dragons-blood-in-skincare) (alternative wound-healing botanical) · [Ectoin](https://whollykaw.com/learn/ectoin-in-skincare) (the German sensitive-skin partner) · [Hyaluronic acid](https://whollykaw.com/learn/hyaluronic-acid-in-skincare).

## Explore the WhollyKaw line

Beyond products that contain this ingredient — a small sample across the WhollyKaw catalog:

Shaving SoapEntropy Man Shaving Soap$29.99SunscreenPhysicalGuard (Tinted) Sunscreen with Zinc Oxide 10.0%, Titanium Dioxide 5.5% Medical Grade. Dermatologist approved$75.99After Shave TonerRenegade After Shave Toner$21.99Pre ShaveBare Naked Unscented Pre-Shave Oil$15.99About WhollyKaw. WhollyKaw uses real ingredient names on its labels — every component spelled out as it appears in the formulation, not hidden behind marketing-friendly aliases.

## Frequently asked questions

### What is centella asiatica?

Centella asiatica is a small herbaceous plant native to Asian wetlands, known as 'cica' in K-beauty, 'gotu kola' in Ayurvedic medicine, and 'tiger grass' in older Western herbalism. Used for 3,000+ years for wound healing and skin disorders. Modern research identifies four active triterpenes (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid) responsible for the documented effects: wound healing acceleration, collagen stimulation, anti-inflammatory action, and barrier support.

### Does cica really work for scars?

Yes — clinical evidence supports centella for hypertrophic and atrophic scar reduction over 3-6 months of consistent topical use. The mechanism is asiaticoside-driven fibroblast migration plus madecassoside-driven collagen remodeling. Effects are gradual; fresh scars respond better than mature ones. For severe scarring, dermatologist consultation is appropriate.

### What's the difference between asiaticoside and madecassoside?

Both are triterpene compounds in centella extract. Asiaticoside is the primary wound-healing active — fibroblast migration, granulation tissue formation. Madecassoside is the primary collagen-stimulating compound — Type I collagen synthesis via TGF-β signaling. The pharmaceutical-grade TECA extract contains both (40% asiaticoside, 60% mixed acids) for combined effect.

### Is centella asiatica safe for sensitive skin?

Yes — one of the safest botanical actives in modern skincare. Particularly suited to atopic dermatitis (eczema) skin and post-procedure recovery. The anti-inflammatory + barrier-supporting combination addresses the two main concerns in sensitive skin. WhollyKaw's Eye Centella Cream is specifically designed for the delicate eye area.

### How long does centella take to work?

Inflammation and redness reduction: 1-2 weeks of consistent use. Barrier function improvement: 2-4 weeks. Visible texture and tone improvements: 4-8 weeks. Scar reduction: 3-6 months. Hypertrophic scars: 6-12 months for noticeable improvement. The effects compound — longer use produces better outcomes.

### Can I use cica with retinol?

Yes — they pair excellently. Centella reduces retinol-induced irritation through anti-inflammatory and barrier-supporting effects. Common routine: apply retinol on clean skin at night, wait 5-10 minutes, then apply a centella-containing serum or moisturizer to soothe and seal. Many dermatologists specifically recommend cica products to support retinoid users.

### Is cica the same as gotu kola?

Yes — different names for the same plant (Centella asiatica). 'Cica' is the abbreviated cosmetic-marketing name (from cicatrisant, the French/medical term for scar-healing). 'Gotu kola' is the Ayurvedic and traditional Asian name. 'Tiger grass' references the traditional observation that tigers roll in the plant after fights, possibly using it for wound healing. Same plant, same compounds.

### Can I use centella during pregnancy?

Topical use at cosmetic concentrations is widely considered pregnancy-safe. Oral centella supplements may have hormonal or fetal effects and should be discussed with a healthcare provider during pregnancy. The topical/oral distinction matters; cosmetic skincare with centella is generally fine during pregnancy.

### Does centella help with rosacea?

Yes — anti-inflammatory cytokine modulation is the key mechanism for rosacea-pattern reactivity. Multiple studies show centella reduces flushing, persistent redness, and visible capillary network. Useful as part of a broader rosacea-management routine alongside dermatologist-prescribed treatments for severe cases.

### What's TECA vs whole centella extract?

TECA is the standardized pharmaceutical-grade form: 40% asiaticoside + 60% mixed asiatic acid and madecassic acid. The 'titrated extract' refers to the precise standardization. Whole-plant centella extract contains the same compounds but in variable proportions and includes other plant compounds. TECA produces more consistent clinical outcomes; whole extract provides broader bioactive content. Most premium cica products use TECA or specifically isolated madecassoside/asiaticoside.

### Why is centella in eye cream specifically?

The eye area's thin skin shows aging signs earlier and reacts to irritants more strongly. Centella's combination of (1) anti-inflammatory action (calms reactive eye-area skin), (2) collagen stimulation (supports thin skin structure), and (3) barrier support (reduces TEWL in dry eye area) addresses exactly the concerns specific to that region. WhollyKaw's Eye Centella Cream pairs centella with ectoin, acmella, hyaluronic acid, and squalane for multi-mechanism eye-area support.

### Can centella cause allergies?

Rare. Centella has one of the best safety records of any botanical skincare active — extensive traditional use across multiple cultures plus modern cosmetic deployment shows minimal allergy concern. Rare individual sensitivities exist; patch test if you have known reactions to Apiaceae family plants (parsley, celery, carrot, fennel — all in the same plant family as centella).