Centella asiatica in skincare: decoding the fractions
Centella asiatica is not one substance. What madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid, TECA and 'cica' each actually denote on a label.
Centella asiatica on an ingredient list is not one substance. Depending on the label, it can mean a whole-plant extract, a single purified triterpene, a standardized pharmaceutical fraction, or a marketing word (“cica”) that says nothing at all about which of those is in the jar. The research people cite for centella was mostly done on specific fractions, so knowing which fraction you are holding is the whole game. This page decodes the fractions and the label words.
Cica, gotu kola, tiger grass, Centella asiatica
Four names, one plant. Cica is the abbreviated cosmetic name, from cicatrisant. Gotu kola is the Ayurvedic and traditional Asian name. Tiger grass comes from the traditional observation that tigers roll in the plant after fights. Hydrocotyle asiatica is an older botanical synonym. All of them refer to Centella asiatica, a small herbaceous plant native to wetlands across Asia, used for over 3,000 years in Ayurvedic and Traditional Chinese Medicine.
It grows across India, Sri Lanka, Madagascar, southern China, Indonesia and Australia. Wild and cultivated sources both exist; cosmetic-grade extracts typically come from cultivated plantations in Madagascar (the original European source) and India. The whole plant contains the bioactive compounds, but the aerial parts, leaves and stems, carry the highest concentrations.
The four triterpenes
What follows describes what published research has examined about each fraction, not an effect a finished product is claimed to produce for you.
Asiaticoside is the fraction most studied in wound-healing research, for roles in fibroblast migration and granulation tissue formation. It appears in pharmaceutical wound-healing products. Madecassoside is the fraction most studied for collagen: laboratory work has examined its effect on collagen Type I synthesis in fibroblasts via TGF-β signaling, in the context of skin aging and scarring. Asiatic acid and madecassic acid are the two aglycone acids; all four have been studied for their effect on pro-inflammatory cytokine release, a pathway examined in research on redness, reactivity and post-injury inflammation, and frequently studied in the context of atopic dermatitis and post-procedure recovery.
Two things ride alongside the triterpenes. Centella also contains polyphenolic flavonoids studied for antioxidant activity against UV-generated free radicals in photoaging research, a lower antioxidant load than dedicated antioxidant ingredients such as vitamin C. And recent work has examined centella extracts in relation to the skin barrier, ceramide synthesis and transepidermal water loss.
TECA, cica, and the words on a label
TECA stands for titrated extract of Centella asiatica: 40% asiaticoside plus a 60% mixture of asiatic and madecassic acids. “Titrated” refers to that precise standardization, which is why TECA is the form behind much of the clinical literature. A whole-plant extract contains the same compounds in variable proportions plus everything else in the plant. Cica, by contrast, is not a specification at all: it is a category word, and a product can carry it while containing a trace of whole extract. Most premium cica products use TECA or a specifically isolated madecassoside or asiaticoside.
| Term on the label | What it denotes | What it tells you about composition |
|---|---|---|
| Centella asiatica extract | Whole-plant aqueous or ethanolic extract | Broad-spectrum bioactive content, proportions vary by batch and source |
| Asiaticoside | One purified triterpene | A single fraction, studied mainly in wound-healing research |
| Madecassoside | One purified triterpene | A single fraction, the one most studied for collagen Type I synthesis |
| Asiatic acid | One purified triterpene (an aglycone acid) | A single fraction, studied in inflammation research and for collagen support |
| Madecassic acid | One purified triterpene (an aglycone acid) | A single fraction, studied in inflammation research with a minor wound-healing role |
| TECA (titrated extract of Centella asiatica) | Standardized 40% asiaticoside plus 60% mixture of asiatic and madecassic acids | A fixed ratio, the pharmaceutical-grade form used in many clinical studies |
| Hydrolyzed centella extract | Extract broken into smaller peptide-like fragments | A processing claim about penetration, not a statement of triterpene content |
| Cica | Cosmetic marketing shorthand, from cicatrisant | Nothing. It is a category word, not a standardization |
Research behind the fractions
Note what these studies are: oral, burn and excision wound models, cultivation chemistry and delivery-system work. That is the shape of the centella literature, and it is not the same as cosmetic outcome testing on a face.
Limits of the label
- Whole extract is not interchangeable with TECA. A standardized 40/60 titrated extract and a crude whole-plant extract at the same stated percentage are not the same material.
- A fraction studied in wound-healing research is not an antiseptic. The research describes the regeneration side, not infection prevention. Deep cuts or infected wounds are a doctor's business.
- Timescales are long. Where centella has been studied in scar-related research, the endpoints run to months of consistent use, not days.
- It is not a pigmentation active. Tyrosinase-inhibiting ingredients act on pigment directly; centella's studied pathways do not.
- It is not a retinoid substitute. Retinoids act through different receptors with a stronger effect; centella is the gentler option, not the equivalent one.
Centella in the WhollyKaw line
- Eye Centella Cream: centella asiatica with ectoin, acmella, sodium hyaluronate and squalane, built for the thin skin of the eye area.
Related: Dragon’s blood · Ectoin · Hyaluronic acid.
Frequently asked questions
Is cica the same as gotu kola?
Yes, different names for the same plant (Centella asiatica). 'Cica' is the abbreviated cosmetic name, from cicatrisant, the French and medical term for scar-healing. 'Gotu kola' is the Ayurvedic and traditional Asian name. 'Tiger grass' references the traditional observation that tigers roll in the plant after fights. Same plant, same compounds. What differs between products is which fraction of the plant is in them, and at what standardization.
What is the difference between asiaticoside and madecassoside?
Both are triterpene compounds found in centella extract. Asiaticoside is the fraction most studied in wound-healing research, for fibroblast migration and granulation tissue formation. Madecassoside is the fraction most studied for collagen, specifically Type I collagen synthesis via TGF-beta signaling. The pharmaceutical-grade TECA extract contains both, at 40% asiaticoside and 60% mixed acids.
What is TECA versus whole centella extract?
TECA is the standardized pharmaceutical-grade form: 40% asiaticoside plus 60% mixed asiatic and madecassic acids. The 'titrated extract' name refers to that precise standardization. Whole-plant centella extract contains the same compounds in variable proportions along with other plant compounds. TECA is the more consistent material and the one behind much of the clinical literature; whole extract provides broader bioactive content.
Is centella asiatica safe for sensitive skin?
It is one of the better-tolerated botanical actives in skincare, with a long history of traditional use and few documented allergic reactions, and it is frequently studied in the context of atopic dermatitis and post-procedure recovery. Rare individual sensitivities do exist. Patch test if you have known reactions to Apiaceae family plants (parsley, celery, carrot, fennel, all relatives of centella), and speak to a dermatologist if your skin is reactive.
Can I use cica with retinol?
They are commonly used together. Centella has been studied for cytokine-modulation and barrier-related activity, which is why cica-type products are often paired with retinoid routines. A common approach is retinol on clean skin at night, then a centella-containing serum or moisturizer after it settles. Layering actives affects tolerance differently for each person, so introduce them gradually and ask a dermatologist about the right cadence for you.
Can I use centella during pregnancy?
Whether any cosmetic active is appropriate during pregnancy or nursing is a personal medical question, and we don't make that determination here. One distinction worth raising with your provider: oral centella supplements are a different question from topical cosmetic use at cosmetic concentrations. Ask your physician or OB-GYN before adding it during pregnancy or breastfeeding.
Sources
- Standardized Centella asiatica extract (ECa 233) mitigates chlorhexidine-induced cytotoxicity and promotes oral wound repair via immunomodulation and angiogenesis. · Arch Oral Biol (2026) · PMID: 41950551
- Effects of Centella asiatica extract on burn wound healing in streptozotocin-induced diabetic rats: a pathological and molecular evaluation. · J Mol Histol (2026) · PMID: 41934524
- Natural Extracts in Skin Repair and Wound Healing: Phytochemical Mechanisms and Dermopharmaceutical Perspectives. · Molecules (2026) · PMID: 41900066
- Asiatic Acid Ameliorates Indomethacin-Induced Gastric Ulcers in Rats Through Enhancement of TGF-β1. · J Biochem Mol Toxicol (2026) · PMID: 41873212
- Transfersomal delivery of Centella asiatica promotes efficient excision wound healing in rats. · Drug Deliv (2025) · PMID: 41025315
- Enhanced Skin-Protective Effects of a Novel Centella asiatica Variety (BT-Care) Cultivated for 75 Days via Modulation of Antioxidant Defense, Collagen Synthesis, and Skin Barrier Function. · J Microbiol Biotechnol (2025) · PMID: 40659547