Centella asiatica in skincare
Centella asiatica — 'cica' in modern skincare — is studied for wound-healing, anti-inflammatory, and collagen-related activity via four key triterpenes. The research.
Centella asiatica — known as "cica" in K-beauty branding, "gotu kola" in Ayurvedic medicine, and "tiger grass" in older Western herbalism — is one of the most-evidence-backed botanicals in modern dermatology. Used for over 3,000 years in Ayurvedic and Traditional Chinese Medicine for wound healing, anti-inflammatory effects, and skin disorders, modern research has validated the mechanisms behind these traditional uses.
Four specific triterpene compounds in centella — asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid (together known as "TECA," titrated extract of Centella asiatica) — have been studied in wound-healing, collagen-synthesis, inflammation, and antioxidant research. WhollyKaw's Eye Centella Cream is built around centella for these specific properties in the delicate eye area.
What centella asiatica is
Centella asiatica (also Hydrocotyle asiatica) is a small herbaceous plant native to wetlands across Asia. The whole plant — leaves, stems, roots — contains the bioactive compounds, but the aerial parts (leaves and stems) provide the highest concentrations. Used fresh, dried, or extracted into standardized concentrations for medicinal and cosmetic use.
The plant grows in tropical and subtropical regions of India, Sri Lanka, Madagascar, Southern China, Indonesia, and Australia. Wild and cultivated sources both exist; cosmetic-grade extracts are typically from cultivated plantations in Madagascar (the original European source) and India.
Forms used in skincare
- Centella asiatica extract — whole-plant aqueous/ethanolic extract; broad-spectrum bioactive content.
- Madecassoside (isolated) — purified single triterpene; most-studied for collagen stimulation.
- Asiaticoside (isolated) — purified single triterpene; primary wound-healing active.
- TECA (titrated extract) — standardized 40% asiaticoside + 60% mixture of asiatic + madecassic acids. The pharmaceutical-grade form used in many clinical studies.
- Hydrolyzed centella extract — broken-down peptide-like fragments for better penetration in modern serums.
How centella works on skin
1. Collagen synthesis stimulation (madecassoside)
In laboratory studies, madecassoside has been examined for its effect on collagen Type I synthesis in fibroblasts via TGF-β signaling. Researchers have studied this pathway in the context of skin aging and scarring. Clinical studies show measurable increases in skin collagen content after 8-12 weeks of consistent topical use.
2. Wound healing acceleration (asiaticoside)
Asiaticoside has been studied for its role in fibroblast migration and granulation tissue formation in wound-healing research. Used in pharmaceutical wound-healing products and traditional medicine for cuts, burns, scars, and post-surgical healing. The mechanism is mechanism-distinct from antimicrobial wound care — centella works on the regeneration side, not the infection-prevention side.
3. Cytokine modulation studied in inflammation research
All four TECA compounds (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid) have been studied for their effect on pro-inflammatory cytokine release. This mechanism has been examined in research on redness, reactivity, and post-injury inflammation, and is frequently studied in the context of atopic dermatitis (eczema) and post-procedure recovery.
4. Antioxidant defense
Centella contains polyphenolic flavonoids (in addition to the triterpenes) that provide antioxidant activity. Studied for activity against UV-generated free radicals in photoaging research. Lower antioxidant load than dedicated antioxidant ingredients like vitamin C, but contributes to overall skin protection.
5. Barrier function support
Recent research has examined centella extracts in relation to the skin barrier, ceramide synthesis, and transepidermal water loss. These barrier and cytokine pathways are among the reasons centella is frequently studied in the context of atopic dermatitis (eczema).
The evidence — published research
The active compounds
| Compound | Primary role | Strength of evidence |
|---|---|---|
| Asiaticoside | Studied for wound healing; fibroblast migration | Strong (decades of clinical use) |
| Madecassoside | Collagen Type I synthesis stimulation | Strong (modern dermatology research) |
| Asiatic acid | Studied in inflammation research; collagen support | Moderate (clinical and cell-level studies) |
| Madecassic acid | Studied in inflammation research; minor wound-healing role | Moderate |
| TECA (titrated extract) | Standardized 40% asiaticoside + 60% acids mix | Strong — pharmaceutical-grade clinical evidence |
What centella actually does (and doesn't)
What it does
- Studied in wound-healing research for roles in fibroblast migration and granulation tissue formation.
- Studied for collagen Type I synthesis via TGF-β signaling (madecassoside primary).
- Studied for cytokine modulation in inflammation research — frequently examined in the context of atopic dermatitis.
- Studied for interactions with skin-barrier function and transepidermal water loss.
- Examined in scar-related research over months of consistent use.
- Well-tolerated by virtually all skin types including very sensitive.
- Pairs well with ectoin, hyaluronic acid, and squalane in sensitive-skin formulations.
What it doesn't do
- Doesn't produce dramatic results in days. Effects compound over weeks to months. Scar reduction in particular requires 3-6 months of consistent application.
- Doesn't replace dedicated antiseptic for open wounds. Centella supports healing but doesn't kill pathogens. For deep cuts or infected wounds, see a doctor.
- Doesn't treat established melasma or pigmentation alone. Tyrosinase-inhibiting actives (vitamin C, niacinamide, hydroquinone) are more direct for pigmentation.
- Doesn't replace retinoids for collagen stimulation. Retinoids work via different receptors with stronger effect; centella is a gentler alternative.
- Whole-extract isn't always equivalent to isolated TECA. Pharmaceutical-grade TECA (40/60 standardized) produces stronger effects than crude whole-plant extract at equivalent concentrations.
Safety considerations
- Generally very safe. Long history of traditional medicinal use (3,000+ years in Ayurveda); modern cosmetic use with minimal documented allergic reactions.
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding: topical centella at cosmetic concentrations has no documented pregnancy concerns. Oral centella supplements may have hormonal effects and should be discussed with a healthcare provider during pregnancy.
- Sensitive skin: centella is specifically suited to sensitive and compromised skin — one of the safer botanical actives.
- Drug interactions: rare; topical use carries no documented drug interaction concerns.
WhollyKaw products with centella asiatica
- Eye Centella Cream — centella asiatica + ectoin + acmella + sodium hyaluronate + squalane. Built for the eye area's delicate skin needs.
Related: Dragon's Blood (alternative wound-healing botanical) · Ectoin (the German sensitive-skin partner) · Hyaluronic acid.
Explore the WhollyKaw line
Beyond products that contain this ingredient — a small sample across the WhollyKaw catalog:
Frequently asked questions
What is centella asiatica?
Centella asiatica is a small herbaceous plant native to Asian wetlands, known as 'cica' in K-beauty, 'gotu kola' in Ayurvedic medicine, and 'tiger grass' in older Western herbalism. Used for 3,000+ years for wound healing and skin disorders. Modern research identifies four active triterpenes (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid) studied in wound-healing, collagen-synthesis, inflammation, and skin-barrier research.
Does cica really work for scars?
Centella has been studied in research on hypertrophic and atrophic scars, typically over several months of topical use. The mechanisms examined include asiaticoside's role in fibroblast migration and madecassoside's role in collagen remodeling. We don't make outcome claims; for scarring concerns, a dermatologist consultation is appropriate.
What's the difference between asiaticoside and madecassoside?
Both are triterpene compounds in centella extract. Asiaticoside is the triterpene most studied in wound-healing research — for fibroblast migration and granulation tissue formation. Madecassoside is the triterpene most studied for collagen — Type I collagen synthesis via TGF-β signaling. The pharmaceutical-grade TECA extract contains both (40% asiaticoside, 60% mixed acids) for combined effect.
Is centella asiatica safe for sensitive skin?
Yes — one of the safest botanical actives in modern skincare. It is frequently studied in the context of atopic dermatitis (eczema) skin and post-procedure recovery. Research has examined both its cytokine-modulation and barrier-related activity, the two pathways most relevant to sensitive skin. WhollyKaw's Eye Centella Cream is specifically designed for the delicate eye area.
How long does centella take to work?
We don't make outcome or timeline claims. Skincare ingredients are generally studied over weeks to months of consistent use; research on centella spans short-term endpoints (such as redness and barrier measures) through longer-term scar-related studies. Individual results vary.
Can I use cica with retinol?
Yes — they pair excellently. Centella has been studied alongside retinol for its cytokine-modulation and barrier-related activity. Common routine: apply retinol on clean skin at night, wait 5-10 minutes, then apply a centella-containing serum or moisturizer to soothe and seal. Many dermatologists specifically recommend cica products to support retinoid users.
Is cica the same as gotu kola?
Yes — different names for the same plant (Centella asiatica). 'Cica' is the abbreviated cosmetic-marketing name (from cicatrisant, the French/medical term for scar-healing). 'Gotu kola' is the Ayurvedic and traditional Asian name. 'Tiger grass' references the traditional observation that tigers roll in the plant after fights, possibly using it for wound healing. Same plant, same compounds.
Can I use centella during pregnancy?
Topical use at cosmetic concentrations is widely considered pregnancy-safe. Oral centella supplements may have hormonal or fetal effects and should be discussed with a healthcare provider during pregnancy. The topical/oral distinction matters; cosmetic skincare with centella is generally fine during pregnancy.
Does centella help with rosacea?
Cytokine modulation is the mechanism most often studied in relation to rosacea-pattern reactivity. Multiple studies have examined centella in research on flushing, persistent redness, and visible capillaries. We don't make outcome claims; rosacea is best managed with a dermatologist, and any routine should be discussed with them.
What's TECA vs whole centella extract?
TECA is the standardized pharmaceutical-grade form: 40% asiaticoside + 60% mixed asiatic acid and madecassic acid. The 'titrated extract' refers to the precise standardization. Whole-plant centella extract contains the same compounds but in variable proportions and includes other plant compounds. TECA produces more consistent clinical outcomes; whole extract provides broader bioactive content. Most premium cica products use TECA or specifically isolated madecassoside/asiaticoside.
Why is centella in eye cream specifically?
The eye area's thin skin shows aging signs earlier and reacts to irritants more strongly. Centella has been studied for (1) cytokine modulation (examined in inflammation research), (2) collagen synthesis, and (3) skin-barrier and TEWL interactions — the pathways most relevant to the thin, reactive skin of the eye area. WhollyKaw's Eye Centella Cream pairs centella with ectoin, acmella, hyaluronic acid, and squalane for multi-mechanism eye-area support.
Can centella cause allergies?
Rare. Centella has one of the best safety records of any botanical skincare active — extensive traditional use across multiple cultures plus modern cosmetic deployment shows minimal allergy concern. Rare individual sensitivities exist; patch test if you have known reactions to Apiaceae family plants (parsley, celery, carrot, fennel — all in the same plant family as centella).
Sources
- Standardized Centella asiatica extract (ECa 233) mitigates chlorhexidine-induced cytotoxicity and promotes oral wound repair via immunomodulation and angiogenesis. · Arch Oral Biol (2026) · PMID: 41950551
- Effects of Centella asiatica extract on burn wound healing in streptozotocin-induced diabetic rats: a pathological and molecular evaluation. · J Mol Histol (2026) · PMID: 41934524
- Natural Extracts in Skin Repair and Wound Healing: Phytochemical Mechanisms and Dermopharmaceutical Perspectives. · Molecules (2026) · PMID: 41900066
- Asiatic Acid Ameliorates Indomethacin-Induced Gastric Ulcers in Rats Through Enhancement of TGF-β1. · J Biochem Mol Toxicol (2026) · PMID: 41873212
- Transfersomal delivery of Centella asiatica promotes efficient excision wound healing in rats. · Drug Deliv (2025) · PMID: 41025315
- Enhanced Skin-Protective Effects of a Novel Centella asiatica Variety (BT-Care) Cultivated for 75 Days via Modulation of Antioxidant Defense, Collagen Synthesis, and Skin Barrier Function. · J Microbiol Biotechnol (2025) · PMID: 40659547