Licorice root in skincare
Licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra) contains glabridin and licochalcone A — strong tyrosinase inhibitors plus anti-inflammatory and antioxidant compounds. The science.
Licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra) is the most-evidence-backed natural skin-brightening botanical in modern dermatology. The active compounds — particularly glabridin, liquiritin, and licochalcone A — are documented tyrosinase inhibitors (the same mechanism as hydroquinone but gentler) plus strong anti-inflammatory and antioxidant agents.
Used for over 4,000 years in Ayurvedic, Traditional Chinese, Greek, and Roman medicine. Modern research has identified the specific compounds responsible for the cosmetic effects and confirmed the mechanism at the cell-receptor level. WhollyKaw's Night Toning Cream uses licorice as one of three pigmentation-fading actives alongside turmeric and malabar kino.
What licorice root is
Licorice is the root of Glycyrrhiza glabra (European licorice) and related species (G. uralensis — Chinese licorice, G. inflata — Asian inflated licorice). The plant grows across Mediterranean Europe, the Middle East, Central Asia, and parts of China. The root is harvested, dried, and processed into various extracts for medicinal, culinary (the candy flavoring), and cosmetic use.
The compounds responsible for skincare effects are concentrated in different parts of the plant and different extract types. Cosmetic-grade licorice extracts are standardized for the specific active they target.
Common licorice forms in skincare
- Licorice root extract (whole) — broad-spectrum aqueous or ethanolic extract.
- Standardized glabridin extract (~40%) — concentrated for the most-studied pigmentation-fading active.
- Licochalcone A (from Glycyrrhiza inflata) — specific anti-inflammatory compound; used in eczema and rosacea-supportive products.
- Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate — water-soluble derivative of glycyrrhetinic acid; strong anti-inflammatory.
- Stearyl glycyrrhetinate — oil-soluble derivative; used in cream formulations for anti-inflammatory action.
How licorice works on skin
1. Tyrosinase inhibition (pigmentation fading)
Glabridin is one of the strongest natural tyrosinase inhibitors known — inhibition rate measured at 50-80% in standardized assays. Mechanism: glabridin binds the active site of tyrosinase, preventing the enzyme from catalyzing the conversion of tyrosine to dopaquinone (the rate-limiting step in melanin biosynthesis). Less potent than hydroquinone but gentler and OTC-available.
2. Melanocyte tyrosinase mRNA suppression
Beyond direct enzyme inhibition, licorice extracts suppress the genetic expression of tyrosinase — the cell produces less of the enzyme over time. This is a complementary mechanism that produces gradual but cumulative pigmentation reduction.
3. Anti-inflammatory action (multiple pathways)
Licochalcone A and glycyrrhetinic acid inhibit pro-inflammatory cytokine release through multiple pathways — NF-κB inhibition, leukotriene reduction, and prostaglandin modulation. Used in pharmaceutical products for atopic dermatitis (eczema) and rosacea support. The anti-inflammatory effect compounds with the pigmentation-fading because reducing inflammation also reduces the post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation that often follows skin irritation.
4. Antioxidant defense
Polyphenolic compounds in licorice provide antioxidant activity — neutralizing reactive oxygen species generated by UV exposure and metabolism. Complement vitamin C, vitamin E, and other dedicated antioxidants.
5. UV-induced pigmentation reduction
Some studies show licorice extracts reduce UV-induced melanin production specifically — relevant for tanning suppression and sun-spot prevention. The mechanism appears to be combined tyrosinase inhibition + anti-inflammatory action limiting the inflammatory pathway that drives sun-induced pigmentation.
The evidence — published research
The active compounds
| Compound | Source | Primary action |
|---|---|---|
| Glabridin | Glycyrrhiza glabra root | Tyrosinase inhibition (strongest natural) |
| Liquiritin | Glycyrrhiza glabra | Melanin dispersion; secondary tyrosinase inhibition |
| Licochalcone A | Glycyrrhiza inflata | Strong anti-inflammatory; antioxidant |
| Glycyrrhetinic acid (GA) | Hydrolyzed glycyrrhizin | Anti-inflammatory; mild antimicrobial |
| Glycyrrhizin | Glycyrrhiza spp. root | Anti-inflammatory; precursor to GA |
What licorice actually does (and doesn't)
What it does
- Inhibits tyrosinase activity — one of the strongest natural pigmentation-fading actives.
- Suppresses tyrosinase mRNA expression over time (cumulative effect).
- Reduces post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation through dual pigmentation + inflammation mechanisms.
- Anti-inflammatory via licochalcone A and glycyrrhetinic acid pathways.
- Antioxidant defense complementing vitamin C and vitamin E.
- Well-tolerated by virtually all skin types including very sensitive.
- Pairs synergistically with niacinamide and vitamin C for multi-mechanism pigmentation reduction.
What it doesn't do
- Doesn't match hydroquinone's pigmentation-fading strength. Hydroquinone is the prescription gold standard (banned in EU, restricted in US OTC); licorice is the OTC alternative producing weaker but sustainable effects without the side-effect profile.
- Doesn't produce dramatic results in days. Visible fading at 8-12 weeks; significant change at 16+ weeks.
- Doesn't replace sunscreen. Pigmentation-fading actives work in tandem with daily SPF — without sunscreen, new pigmentation forms faster than the active fades existing.
- Extract quality varies meaningfully. Whole-plant extract has lower active concentrations than standardized glabridin extracts. Read ingredients carefully.
Safety considerations
- Topical use at cosmetic concentrations: very safe. Long traditional and modern use without significant safety concerns.
- Pregnancy: topical licorice at cosmetic concentrations is considered safe. Oral high-dose licorice (especially extended use) can affect blood pressure and is contraindicated in pregnancy and certain cardiovascular conditions. Topical/oral distinction matters.
- Allergic reactions: rare. Patch test if you have known reactions to legume-family plants (Fabaceae — includes peanuts, soybeans, peas).
- Photosensitivity: not associated with topical licorice (unlike some pigmentation-fading agents).
- Drug interactions (topical): none documented.
WhollyKaw products with licorice root
- Night Toning Cream — licorice + turmeric + malabar kino + vitamin C. The complete overnight pigmentation-fading + anti-inflammatory stack.
Related: Turmeric (pigmentation partner in Night Toning Cream) · Vitamin C (synergistic tyrosinase inhibitor) · Niacinamide.
Explore the WhollyKaw line
Beyond products that contain this ingredient — a small sample across the WhollyKaw catalog:
Frequently asked questions
What does licorice root do for skin?
Licorice root contains glabridin and licochalcone A — strong tyrosinase inhibitors that fade hyperpigmentation, plus anti-inflammatory compounds that reduce reactive skin. The pigmentation-fading mechanism is the same as hydroquinone (the prescription gold standard) but gentler, producing weaker but sustainable effects without the side-effect profile.
Is licorice root a natural skin brightener?
Yes — one of the most-evidence-backed natural brighteners in dermatology. Glabridin (the primary active in licorice root) is among the strongest natural tyrosinase inhibitors. Effects compound over 8-12 weeks of consistent use; significant brightening at 16+ weeks.
What's the difference between licorice and licochalcone?
Licochalcone A is a specific compound found in <em>Glycyrrhiza inflata</em> (Chinese licorice variant). It's a particularly strong anti-inflammatory active distinct from glabridin (the pigmentation-fading active from <em>G. glabra</em> — European licorice). Some skincare products use one or the other; premium formulations use both for combined pigmentation + anti-inflammatory effects.
How long does licorice take to fade dark spots?
Visible fading at 8-12 weeks of consistent use. Significant fading at 16+ weeks. Multi-active formulations (licorice + turmeric + vitamin C + niacinamide) compound faster than licorice alone. Daily sunscreen during the treatment period is essential — without it, new pigmentation forms faster than the active fades existing.
Is licorice safe during pregnancy?
Topical licorice at cosmetic concentrations is considered safe. Oral high-dose licorice supplements (especially extended use) can affect blood pressure and are contraindicated in pregnancy. The topical/oral distinction matters: cosmetic skincare with licorice is generally fine during pregnancy.
Can licorice replace hydroquinone?
Replace with caveats. Hydroquinone is more potent but has side-effect concerns that led to EU bans and US OTC restrictions. Licorice is gentler but slower. For mild-to-moderate pigmentation, licorice + niacinamide + vitamin C in combination produces similar long-term outcomes without the hydroquinone risks. For severe melasma, hydroquinone (under dermatologist supervision) remains stronger.
Does licorice help with rosacea?
Yes — licochalcone A's anti-inflammatory action specifically reduces rosacea-pattern redness and reactivity. Several pharmaceutical-grade skincare products use licochalcone for rosacea support. The mechanism (multi-pathway anti-inflammatory) is well-suited to rosacea's inflammatory component.
Is licorice safe for sensitive skin?
Yes — among the safer pigmentation-fading actives. The combination of tyrosinase inhibition + anti-inflammatory action means licorice both fades pigmentation AND reduces the irritation that often accompanies aggressive pigmentation actives. Patch test if you have legume-family allergies (rare cross-reactivity).
Can I use licorice with vitamin C?
Yes — synergistic combination. Both target tyrosinase through different mechanisms: licorice binds the enzyme; vitamin C also inhibits it plus provides antioxidant defense. Together, they outperform either alone for pigmentation reduction. WhollyKaw's Night Toning Cream uses both.
What's glabridin?
Glabridin is the primary tyrosinase-inhibiting compound in European licorice root (<em>Glycyrrhiza glabra</em>). Standardized licorice extracts are concentrated for glabridin content (~40% in pharmaceutical-grade extracts). One of the strongest natural tyrosinase inhibitors documented in skincare research — inhibition rates of 50-80% in standardized assays.
Does licorice stain skin like turmeric?
No. Licorice extracts are pale yellow at most; cosmetic-formulated products are typically clear or slightly tinted. No documented skin or fabric staining at normal use levels.
Is licorice vegan?
Yes — entirely plant-derived. The active compounds come from the root of Glycyrrhiza plants; no animal products involved in extraction or cosmetic-grade production.
Sources
- Glabridin promotes melanosome degradation and alleviates melanosome-induced mitochondrial dysfunction in keratinocytes via autophagy. · Biochem Biophys Res Commun (2026) · PMID: 42019358
- Glycyrrhiza glabra extract as a skin-whitening Agent: Identification of active components and CRTC1/MITF pathway-inhibition mechanism. · J Ethnopharmacol (2025) · PMID: 40350048
- Glabridin Attenuates the Retinal Degeneration Induced by Sodium Iodate In Vitro and In Vivo. · Front Pharmacol (2020) · PMID: 33178017
- Additive Effect of a Combination of Artocarpus lakoocha and Glycyrrhiza glabra Extracts on Tyrosinase Inhibition in Melanoma B16 Cells. · Pharmaceuticals (Basel) (2020) · PMID: 33066628
- Glabridin Inhibits Melanogenesis and Melanin Transfer via Wnt/β-Catenin Pathway and Rho Family GTPase-Mediated Dendritic Formation Suppression. · Pharmaceuticals (Basel) (2026) · PMID: 41901315
- Utility Assessment of Isolated Starch and Extract from Thai Yam (Dioscorea hispida Dennst.) for Cosmetic via In Vitro and In Vivo Studies. · Life (Basel) (2025) · PMID: 40003560